Aqua Zonic makes aquarium lighting, pumps and UV clarification. We carry the range in two halves: the fittings themselves — fluorescent tubes, LED bars, clamp lamps and submersible pumps — and the spare parts behind them, the ballasts, transformers, impellers, seals and quartz sleeves that keep an existing unit working rather than replacing the whole thing.
Lighting: T5, T8 or LED. T8 is the older 26mm fluorescent format and the cheapest way to light a tank. T5 is narrower and puts out substantially more light per centimetre, which is why a planted tank that will not grow anything under a single T8 usually will under twin T5. LED costs more up front and saves it back — the emitters do not fade the way fluorescent does, so there is no annual tube to buy.
Spectrum matters more than brand. Super Sun is daylight-balanced and neutral. Super Tropical Pink pushes reds and violets, which flatters tropical fish and helps plants. Super Actinic Blue is for marine and reef tanks and is normally run alongside a daylight tube rather than instead of one — actinic alone is not enough light for most corals.
More light is not automatically better. A high-output fitting over a lightly planted tank grows algae rather than plants. Put lighting on a timer, start around six to eight hours a day, and keep it consistent. Replace fluorescent tubes annually even when they still light: output and colour drift long before a tube fails, and plants notice well before you do.
Pumps. The EVO submersible range runs from 300 to 1300 L/hr. Rated flow is measured with no head and no restriction, so real delivery through a filter and up a metre of hose is considerably less — size up rather than buying exactly to your calculated requirement. A pump that has gone quiet or weak is far more often a calcium-fouled impeller than a dead motor: pull it, soak it in vinegar for an hour, rinse and refit.
UV clarifiers. Worth being clear about what these do. Green water is single-celled algae suspended through the water column, and no filter media will strain it out because the cells are smaller than the pores. UV binds them into clumps large enough for a filter to catch — which means a UV clarifier only works with a pump and filter running alongside it, and it does nothing for algae growing on the glass. Two maintenance points do most of the work: replace the UV lamp every year, because output collapses long before the lamp goes dark, and wipe the quartz sleeve at every service, because a film of scale on the quartz blocks UV as effectively as a dead lamp.
Canister filter spares. The Aqua Zonic Pro canister was also sold badged Bioscape Tropic and the parts are common to both, so if your filter says Bioscape on the lid these are still the right spares. Go by the model number — 800, 1200, 1800 or 2200 — stamped on the unit. Before replacing a motor unit, rule out the cheap causes: a clogged intake strainer, a fouled impeller, a blocked media basket or air trapped in the head, in that order.
Ordering spares. Ballasts and transformers are matched to a specific wattage and unit length — check the model code stamped on your unit rather than matching by eye. And before replacing either, try a known-good tube and check the end caps: corroded contacts in a humid hood look exactly like a failed ballast.
Safety: isolate at the mains before opening any light or UV housing, and never look at a lit UV-C lamp outside its housing.
